"Before visiting Kashmir, I knew it only through photographs, films, and news reports. But after spending seven days walking on its soil, living among its people, and experiencing their warmth and affection, I realized that Kashmir is not merely a geographical region — it is an emotion."
These are the words of Mahesh Ved, Vice Principal at Government Senior Secondary School, Baswa, Rajasthan — a man who set out on a journey to Kashmir with two close friends and returned with something far more valuable than photographs and memories. He returned with a transformed understanding of one of India's most talked-about yet least truly understood regions.
The Journey Begins — From Jaipur to Srinagar
On the afternoon of June 16, 2026, Mahesh Ved and his two close friends Nitish and Raghuveer — all three lecturers in the Education Department of the Government of Rajasthan — boarded a Devaraj Travels bus from Sindhi Camp Bus Stand, Jaipur.
Nitish teaches Geography, Raghuveer teaches Hindi and Mahesh teaches English. Being educators, the three carried with them a natural curiosity to explore new places, understand people and experience different cultures.
The next morning, they arrived at Narwal Bus Stand, Jammu and hired a taxi to Srinagar. As their vehicle climbed into the mountains, the landscape transformed dramatically — from the scorching plains of Rajasthan to the breathtaking mountain ranges of northern India.
By afternoon they were in Srinagar — checked into a hotel near Dal Gate and by evening, they were already out exploring the city.
Srinagar — A City That Feels Like a Poem
The cool evening of Srinagar left a lasting impression. The bustling atmosphere of Lal Chowk, the lively local markets, the simplicity of the people and the city illuminated under the night sky created an experience that Mahesh describes as nothing short of magical.
They explored local markets, tasted traditional Kashmiri cuisine, took photographs and made video reels — filling their first evening in the Valley with memories that would last a lifetime.
Keran Valley — Where India Meets the Border
On the morning of June 18, the trio set out for Keran Valley — one of the most sensitive and breathtaking border areas of India — with their Kashmiri friend Aadil Hassan, a resident of Kandi Khass village in Kupwara district.
After obtaining permits at Karalpora Police Station, Kupwara and clearing several security checkpoints, they made their way through towering mountains, deep valleys and dangerous bends — a journey that was as thrilling as it was visually stunning.
What they saw when they arrived at Keran was difficult to describe in words.
Pakistan-administered Kashmir (POK) was visible barely a hundred meters away. Between the two sides flowed the Kishanganga River — known as the Neelum River on the Pakistani side. There was no fencing along this stretch of the border. People on both sides could see each other and exchange greetings by waving their hands.
"At that moment, I felt that borders may divide nations, but they cannot divide human emotions." — Mahesh Ved
The Hospitality of Keran — A Home Away from Home
The trio spent the entire day along the banks of the Kishanganga River, interacting with local residents and understanding the unique sensitivities of life in a border region.
That evening, they stayed at the home of local friend Shafiq Lone — whose warmth and hospitality made them feel not like guests, but like family.
The following morning, local friend Tabussar took them on a tour of Keran village. They visited the local government school, where staff and students gave them a warm welcome. Teacher Zia Ahmad Khan showed them around the school and took them to a natural spring called Tata Pani — whose cold, glacier-fed water Mahesh remembers vividly even today.
Kandi Khaas — Lavender Fields and Lifelong Friendships
From Keran, the journey continued to Kandi Khaas village in Kupwara — Aadil's home.
Upon arriving, they visited the local sports ground where Aadil was playing cricket. Nearly every local resident they met wanted to invite them home — a hospitality that Mahesh describes as coming not from social custom, but from the heart.
That evening at Aadil's home, the welcome from Ghulam Hassan Uncle and Aunt was extraordinary. A traditional Kashmiri home, a family full of warmth, a meal prepared with love by Aadil's younger sisters Iqra and Shaba and sister-in-law — the experience felt like a dream come true.
Aadil also took them to the famous Lavender Valley of Kandi — endless stretches of lavender under a setting sun, cool mountain breeze and the laughter of local children creating a scene straight from a dream.
Late into the night, Ghulam Hassan Uncle, elder brother Arshid and other family members sat together sharing stories. In that gathering, all boundaries of religion, caste, language and region dissolved.
"Only humanity remained."
The Real Kashmir — Beyond the Headlines
The journey then continued to Pahalgam — but saying goodbye to the Hassan family felt like leaving close relatives, not strangers.
For Mahesh Ved, this journey revealed a side of Kashmir that rarely makes it into news reports or political debates:
- Kashmiriyat — the spirit of love, coexistence and cultural harmony
- Jamhooriyat — the democratic aspiration of people to live with dignity and identity
- Insaniyat — the humanity that erased every distance between people of different backgrounds
"Today, when I look back on those seven days, it is not the mountains that first come to mind, but the smiles of the people. More than the flowing waters of the Kishanganga River, I remember the affection of Ghulam Hassan Uncle. More than the lavender fields, I remember the love of Iqra, Shaba, Arshid, Aadil, Shafiq, and countless other Kashmiri friends."
About the Author
Mahesh Ved is a Government Lecturer teaching English in the Education Department of Rajasthan and serves as Vice Principal at Government Senior Secondary School, Baswa, Dausa, Rajasthan. He is also a passionate traveler, writer and educator who believes that real education happens not just in classrooms but in the experiences life offers beyond them.